WITH LOVE FROM FLORENCE





It's been a while since we've had anything sartorial around here--so here you are, me dears.

Simone Abbarchi of Florence is my favorite shirtmaker. Since my man Sean Crowley introduced me to Simone, I've amassed a modest little collection.

I visited his hotel suite and ordered some shirts earlier this autumn, as a kind of last hurrah before the economic apocalypse. In a spirit of misplaced frugality, I went for some staples this time: a white and lavender shirt of what looks to me like piqué twill, and a poplin number in a sensible but serene Wedgewood blue.

I generally tend to favor the soft feel and rich visual texture of twill. Poplin often comes off a bit too severe, flat and stiff for my liking, but I have a few poplin shirts in the closet, nevertheless. Its crispness is hard to beat if you really want to look especially sharp or formal.

Most of my shirts tend to be in shades of pink, blue or lavender, to go with my ruddy complexion. No orange for yours truly.



Simone's shirts are more made-to-measure than true bespoke (no split yoke or anything like that), but when a shirt is this well-fitted and well-made at such a reasonable price, taking the extra trouble and expense for a true bespoke custom shirt seems pointless unless you're a hunchback or have a third arm.

Simone's shirts have a close, European fit. As a short mesomorph (I'm rudely built: lots of bumps, humps and lumps), such a close fit makes all the difference in my profile. They've truly spoiled me: My other made to measure shirts can feel loose and blousey in comparison, and off the rack shirts tend to make me feel like I'm wearing a pirate shirt that once belonged to John Goodman.

In other made to measure news: I am also awaiting my new suit from Duchess--a sage greenish-gray with a lavender lining. Cannot wait.